Jeffsetter Travel

Travel Consultants and Travel Tips

Recommendations for Buenos Aires and Argentina?

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Spaceship Cloud in Argentina
Spaceship Cloud in Argentina

Hello Everyone. This post is not really going to be sharing much knowledge with you. Instead, I am going to ask for your knowledge.

I have booked a series of flights that will have me in Buenos Aires for a large part of the US winter. Now, I thought I would ask for recommendations from readers to make sure I am doing things the right way. 

For those of you who have spent time in Buenos Aires, where do you recommend that we stay? Is Recoleta a good option? Palermo? Anywhere else?

We want to be able to walk to public transport easily, but also have a neighborhood where we can enjoy restaurants, cafes and more. Our Spanish level is what you would expect from 5 years of US High School Spanish instruction. Working to improve this though.

Any restaurant recommendations in the city?

Next, what weekend trips do you recommend from Buenos Aires? We will definitely be going to Mendoza. Uruguay as well. Patagonia if we can find something that isn’t already booked. Any others?

I know that this request is out of left field and a little vague, but plans just started to firm up this week and I want to pull things together while it’s fresh in my mind.

Thanks!

Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. You can stay at Recoleta, Retiro and Microcentro, those are where the most chain hotels are located. As for public transport, I would absolutely discourage you from doing so as a) the system requires you to get an equivalent of an oyster card which requires you to apply for one using your national ID, which you wouldn’t have. I do not think they solved the issue for non-residents not being able to obtain one. However, taxis are extremely inexpensive especially with the exchange rate being so favorable. As for restaurants your best bet is probably going to be Recoleta or Palermo; you’ll find the food is amazing but the service is in most cases lacking. Shoot me an email if you want more details, I lived in Buenos Aires and have traveled through the country extensively so I can give you a few pointers. Enjoy!

    • I am having issues posting, but public transportation is great in BA. Go to a convenience store and ask to buy a card. You might pay above market, but we are talking a few dollars. If the first store doesn’t have a card, try another. Also, unless things have changed, you can pay as you go anyway. The bus system is surprisingly effective, but hard to comprehend. Google this or ask a local to teach you.

  2. There is a website called restorando (https://www.restorando.com/) that allows you to book reservations, but it also lets you select restaurants that offer significant discounts at certain times. 30% off food (and wine!) is not unusual.

    • I 100% disagree with this! Public transportation in Buenos Aires is great! Go to a convenience store and ask for a card. You might pay above market but we are talking about a few dollars at most. If the first store doesn’t have one, try another. Also, I don’t think you actually need the card anyway. Unless things have changed, you can pay as you go, but it’s more expensive and less convenient. I have some unrelated tips so I will post them separately.

  4. I stayed at Casa Calma boutique hotel for less than $100 a night – there are several good options in Retiro and Recoleta in that price range. You dont need to waste $$ or points at the expensive chain hotels in BA, better to save your points for elsewhere, You may think you are getting $700 worth of point at the park Hyatt – but you are paying very inflated price there.

    Also make sure you get a decent exchange rate for your dollares using the blue market. The street may be a bit risky but restaurants and hotel will get you a decent rate usually.

  5. I would recommend staying in Palermo Soho – it’s much younger than Recoleto and much more vibrant than Palermo Hollywood. Palermo Soho is where many of the fun restaurants are and there’s good shopping (at least for Argentina), as well as being fairly safe. Recoleto is much smarter and safer still but has much less atmosphere. Palermo Hollywood is too high rise for my taste and just less interesting.

    Do not stay in a chain hotel (what’s the point of pretending you are in middle America?), instead stay in a local small hotel or an AirBnB. I particularly enjoyed the Hotel Palermo on Thames (it has a lovely garden and pool and oodles of character). If you prefer something a little more modern and antiseptic, the Glu on Godoy Cruz is also lovely.

    • Awesome recommendations. I should have mentioned in the post that we will definitely be staying in an AirBNB. Just about to book it and didn’t want to jinx it. It would be in recoleta. I am not really into wild partying anymore

  6. You can find info from my epic trip and report, link below. Last stop was Buenos Aires:

    http://travelbloggerbuzz.com/travel-reports/megatrip-planes-trains-and-cows/

    Many in the hobby prefer the Hyatt property, you can’t go wrong there. WE loved the Hilton mostly because of the most awesome upgrade we got. Recoleta is very nice, upgraded restaurants. Taxis are great. Loved the sandwiches from stalls, super cheap instead of paying too much for them juicy steaks. There is a hole in the wall place selling BBQ by the Boca Juniors stadium, can’t get more authentic street food than that. The restaurant we went for them juicy steaks was pricey but worth it for one night to splurge. BA is great to walk around. On Thursday aftrernoons the mother of the Disappeared hold their weekly demonstration…not many left!

    Enjoy!

  7. weekend – fly nonstop from AEP to Punte del este drive toward the coastal area of Manantiales best restaurant http://www.ofarrellrestaurant.com/punta/eng/index.php b’fast/coffee/ https://es-es.facebook.com/lalinda.uy then (east, small beach town) then priceless Jose Ignacio. a must go for lunch is LUNCH 1:30pm Parador la Huella http://www.paradorlahuella.com/en/ +598 4486 2279 – Brava Beach EAST José Ignacio — walk up lighthouse before or after lunch.
    if you need a car service around BA recommend strongly CAR SERVICE p/u MDZ Fred, SilverStar Transfers & Tours http://www.silverstarcar.com Cell +54 911 6826 8876 (from outside Arg) Cell 15 6826 8876 (from Arg) English Speaking

  8. You need to take enough US dollars in cash to transact on the “blue” market. You’ll get about 15 pesos per $ versus the official rate of less than 10. Any hotel concierge can point you in the right direction.

    If that’s too much cash to carry around, you can probably get more dollars in Uruguay.

    • Cash makes a huge difference! You can also go to a cash for gold place, “Cambia Oro,” and they will probably also exchange pesos and dollars. Alternatively, if you run out of cash, there are some Western Union-like money transfer services that will let you send cash to yourself at better than the official exchange rate.

  9. Puerto madero is Nice to walk in the Níght and dinner. Have a nice few restaurant. And you must to eat in traditional pizza places like Los Inmortales and El cuartito. Will be the best pizza and no the American pizza taste.
    Palermo is
    Nice but the best hotels are in microcentro. You can travel in subway so easily and the bus are easy too. Just take the app “BA Como llego” And you can to know the best way to go from
    Some point to other.
    Can go to spend your day or weekend in places where can eat and live like the Gauchos time ago with horses, cows and traditional music and dances.
    The Colon Theatre is a pearl that you must to visit
    Don’t take taxis in the airport at arrive, take Manuel Tienda Leon or a safe car, the stands are when you pas customs area.
    And be ready to the hot summer, the city will be burn! Haha and enjoy
    If you need something just write me

  10. Here is my list. Maybe a little dated but most great restaurants are still great. Argentina is very cheap now so you should have a great time there.

    Unique – great environment in Palermo soho and tasty food and cocktails
    Crizia – decent environment, large place
    Hernan Gipponi Resturante … steps or phases… options of 5, 7, or 12 steps !!!
    i Latina… said to be the best in BA, but only open a few nights a week
    Casa Coupage… small house with great food wine pairings
    Aramburu – Off the beaten path. Well worth it
    Tegui – Excellent food and service. Contemporary
    La Brigada (in San Telmo) – meat – One of my top restaurants in BA
    La Cabrera (in Palermo) – meat – Spectacular. Trendy
    La Cabaña (in Puerto Madero) – meat
    La Dorita – meat
    Parrilla Miranda – meat
    Don Julio – Argentine/meat
    4141 Restaurante – meat – (El Centro)
    Casa Cruz – top chef in Argentina
    Tegui – (same owner as above)
    Sucre – Argentine cuisine
    Oviedo – Seafood/Mediterranean
    Marcello – Italian
    Bar Uriarte – Argentine/Italian cuisine
    Piegari – Italian
    Tomo I – Argentine cuisine
    Sipan – Peruvian
    Juana M – Argentine cuisine
    Il Matterello – best Italian in BA (in La Boca (go during lunch))
    El Cuartito – pizza/empanadas
    El Sanjuanino – empanadas
    Cafe Las Violetas – typical Cafe in Buenos Aires
    M Buenos Aires – Peruvian/Japanese fusion
    Osaka sushi
    Cadore – ice cream
    Persico – ice cream
    Chungo – ice cream
    Freddo – ice cream
    Nonna Biana – ice cream
    Valenti – Patio Bullrich – deli

  11. Definitely take a day trip on the ferry over to Colonia (del Sacramento), Uruguay – charming little town and the historic part is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. You really only need a day trip to get a feel for it, but you could overnight and then come back next day also. I had delicious meals there on two separate visits ten years apart. Perhaps you’re already planning trips to see the rest of Argentina, if you’re going to be there a long time, but I enjoyed Ushuaia (if for no other reason, you can check off the “southernmost city in the world” box). Kind of a long flight, since Argentina is such a big country, but I thought it was fun. Took a short cruise through the Beagle Channel – really pretty scenery in the whole of the Tierra del Fuego region.

    If you get a chance to watch an Argentine movie before you go, would recommend it as their accent is really different from most of Latin America. Takes a little to train your ear for it.

  12. Don’t miss the MALBA (Museo de Arte Latino de Buenos Aires). Its s running modern art museum with a collection from all over Latin America. The building is gorgeous and the cafe is great.

    Cafe Tortoni is a taste of a bygone Era, go for breakfast and have the medialunas–try both kinds!

    Go for a drink at the Hotel Castelar, where Federico Garcia Lorca lived and wrote for nearly a year.

    The Evita Museum is really fun, and a great place to have lunch!!

    If you do only one side trip from BA, DON’T MISS Colonia del Sacramento in Uruguay. Its a short boat ride to a UNESCO listed colonial village whose vibe is mellow and unique. Stay a few days if you can!

    All around, I have to say that I prefer Montevideo to BA for a lot of reasons. If you have a chance to get there, its definitely worth it.

  13. Avoid Hotels. Rent an apartment. We are actually in BA right now in a great 2 Level loft near the top of a 30 floor building (Floor to ceiling windows) And its great price. ~125 USD a night. In Palermo Soho area.

  14. -The best ice-cream is at VOLTA (SantaFe & Callao)
    -Great grill & steak bar is: Kansas (Av. Libertador)
    -The world’s best book store: El Ateneo Grand Splendid on SantaFe just up the street from VOLTA. This is a book store housed in a grand old opera house. Beautiful!

    Area to stay would be Palermo. Recoleta is nice but it’s very old money and not much life.

    But make sure you visit the Recoleta cemetery the entry is free (never thought I’d see such beauty in a cemetery) but watch out for scammers trying to sell you a map that they say includes entry to cemetery.

  15. You have to visit Iguazu Falls. I thought I knew what I was getting into having seen pictures, but being there definitely exceeded expectations.

    I would also highly recommend the arid region of northern Argentina…places like Salt and Calafette. There is so much unique natural beauty there. And, it’s one of the few areas that still maintains any Native American culture.

    You probably have the flight thing figured out, but just in case, here’s my tip. Go to a local travel agency and tell them you want to pay for a flight in tax. First, it will be cheaper because then you can use your blue market money and get a way better exchange rate. But, maybe more significantly, there is a very good chance they will be able to beat any published fare anyway.

    • You have to visit Iguazu Falls. I thought I knew what I was getting into having seen pictures, but being there definitely exceeded expectations.

      I would also highly recommend the arid region of northern Argentina…places like Salt and Calafette. There is so much unique natural beauty there. And, it’s one of the few areas that still maintains any Native American culture.

      You probably have the flight thing figured out, but just in case, here’s my tip. Go to a local travel agency and tell them you want to pay for a flight in cash. It will be cheaper because then you can use your blue market money and get a way better exchange rate and there is a very good chance they will be able to beat any published fare anyway.

  16. Gran Parilla del Plata in San Telmo was so good the first time that my friend and I circled back to eat there again when we flew through BA later on our trip. Excellent meat, inexpensive Malbec, and the restaurant even passed out sparkling wine to the whole place to toast a birthday party while we were there.

    A previous poster brings up a very important point about bringing lots of USD to exchange at the Dolar Blue rate. We miles and points hobbyists usually look to use cards for as much as possible, but in Argentina that will decrease your buying power tremendously since banks convert at the official rate. Go to Florida St when you’re ready to exchange.

    As for getting around Argentina, consider using SkyPesos. Delta is partnered with Aerolineas Argentinas and you should be able to call in and book at 10,000 miles per flight. The best redemption I’ve ever found for orphan Delta miles! If you decide to use them to fly to Patagonia, check out my website for a trip report. Truly spectacular place!

  17. Since you are in recoleta, a good cafe is tea connection, actually decent coffee and great brekkie options. One of my fave pizzas outside of italy is Piola, also in the hood.
    Agree with the above, see Teatro Colon. Tours daily.
    Also, surprised no one mentioned the Sunday market in San Telmo, lots of cool things to see.
    Palermo Soho is too expat-y for my tastes, but is worth checking out. If you are there ithis month, check out the open air milonga at the rotunda in Belgrano, real tangueros, outdoors, I think it is at 6 on Wednesdays?? Easy to find out online.
    Depending on time, if you are there more than 10 days, day trips to Colonia, Tigre make sense.

    Change cash, watch your valuables, enjoy the spirit.

    Ateneo is a must on Santa Fe, but I also love all the little bookstores on Corrientes.

    There is an app with bus routes in BA, The buses are pretty well connected, although taxis are far from exorbitant, but since you are not native, eyes open, especially when you give and receive change.

    Have fun

  18. Soooo many awesome ideas for the Jeffsetters!!! I sure hope BA has good internet so you can keep us updated on all the fun adventures you have in Argentina. I totally want to go after reading all these tips!